Dermatology

Acne: far beyond adolescence.

Acne affects the vast majority of teenagers6 and is common in adulthood, especially in women4. The good news: effective treatments exist, recommended by international guidelines1,2.

Helder Moreira
Helder Moreira  ·  14 October 2026  ·  2 min de leitura
Two women in black clothing pose side by side against a pale background, one with a blonde bun and the other wearing a black hijab, looking in opposite directions.

In short

Why it happens

Acne is not about poor hygiene. It is an inflammatory condition of the hair follicle and oil gland, influenced by hormones, genetics and, in part, lifestyle3.

The four factors behind acne3

01

Excess oil

Glands produce more oil under hormonal influence.

02

Blocked pore

Cells build up and form blackheads and whiteheads.

03

Bacteria

C. acnes multiplies inside the blocked pore.

04

Inflammation

Papules, pustules and, in severe cases, nodules appear.

Severity and treatment

From mild to severe1,2

Mild

Signs

Blackheads, whiteheads and a few spots.

Approach

Creams with a retinoid, benzoyl peroxide or azelaic acid.

Moderate

Signs

Many inflamed papules and pustules.

Approach

Combination creams and, if needed, oral or hormonal medication for a limited time.

Severe

Signs

Deep, painful nodules with a risk of scarring.

Approach

Oral isotretinoin, under medical supervision.

In-clinic procedures can complement medical treatment, especially for inflammatory acne and marks: chemical peels, LED light therapy and lasers such as ADVATx1,6. They are decided case by case, after an assessment.

What about scars?

When acne leaves marks, evidence-based treatments exist: fractional CO2 laser (eCO2 Plus) resurfaces the skin in depth and microneedling stimulates collagen7. Ideally, though, treat early — the best scar is the one that never forms.

Day to day

Helps

Hurts

A balanced diet with fewer fast-acting sugars, and managing stress, also matter5. At FACELAB, dermatology, aesthetic medicine and nutrition work together.

A plan made for you.

Every face and every skin is different. Book an assessment: we review your case and design a personalised treatment plan with you, with realistic goals.

Helder Moreira

Written by

Helder Moreira

Physician accredited in Aesthetic Medicine · Portuguese Medical Association (Ordem dos Médicos) — licence no. 55532

Patient information

The procedures and treatments mentioned in this article require a prior individual medical assessment and, in some cases, a medical prescription. Indications, results and their duration vary from person to person and cannot be guaranteed. This article is for information only and does not replace a medical consultation.

For more information contact Facelab, Lda. on +351 961 023 229, by email at geral@facelab.pt, or visit www.facelab.pt.

  • FACELAB Albufeira — Rua do Estádio, Quinta da Bela Vista, Lote 2, 8200-127 Albufeira · ERS Registration Certificate: E172446 · Operating licence: 24619/2024
  • FACELAB Faro — Rua da PSP, n.º 22, 8000-408 Faro · ERS Registration Certificate: E180121 · Operating licence: 26536/2025

References

  1. Reynolds RV, Yeung H, Cheng CE, et al. Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2024;90(5):1006.e1–1006.e30. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2023.12.017
  2. Nast A, Dréno B, Bettoli V, et al. European evidence-based (S3) guideline for the treatment of acne — update 2016 — short version. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2016;30(8):1261–1268.
  3. Dréno B. What is new in the pathophysiology of acne, an overview. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2017;31(Suppl 5):8–12.
  4. Collier CN, Harper JC, Cantrell WC, Wang W, Foster KW, Elewski BE. The prevalence of acne in adults 20 years and older. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2008;58(1):56–59. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2007.06.045
  5. Burris J, Rietkerk W, Woolf K. Acne: the role of medical nutrition therapy. J Acad Nutr Diet. 2013;113(3):416–430.
  6. Pei S, Inamadar AC, Adya KA, Tsoukas MM. Light-based therapies in acne treatment. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2015;6(3):145–157. doi:10.4103/2229-5178.156379
  7. Fabbrocini G, Annunziata MC, D’Arco V, et al. Acne scars: pathogenesis, classification and treatment. Dermatol Res Pract. 2010;2010:893080.
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Helder Moreira